Crossing the desert–Into the Sinai
May 14, 2011
Today we leave Cairo and head into the Sinai desert, following in the footsteps of the Holy Family, Moses and countless other prophets. It’s also the day of the promised hike up Mt. Sinai, which i can tell you i will not be doing. The first stop was was at the cave (now a church) where the Holy Family stayed when they fled into Egypt. Also there is the Ben Ezra synagogue, St. Barpara’s church, and a Coptic church – St. Sargius and St. Wackus. Beautiful ikons in the church, which is the oldest in Egypt. The synagogue is decorated in an Islamic style, and there is, as with every other church we’ve seen, a mosque nearby. This country seems to be a model for side-by-side religious co-existence, as there are mosques inside of churches, and vice-versa!
After a quick drive through old Cairo, we headed to the Eastern desert. Cairo’s slums, even seen from the comfort of a bus, are not something one wants to see up close. There are some scary looking buildings, and filth is everywhere. But heading to the desert… and what to say about the desert and Suez?
There’s desolation. And rocks. But there are colours and shapes that are astonishing and stark. Then when plants and green appear, like in a wadi, it’s so sudden and different that it’s a benediction. I found the desert to be a cleansing space; something to scour the scum from the mind. I would like to do the “night in the desert” experience now that Fouad had mentioned with the Bedouin… just to build on the camel experience and everything else. The drive through the Sinai peninsula was eye opening – the mountains are full of colour, but not the green of life, they’re red, ochre, brown, black, orange, all harsh, strong and vibrant shades that speak of testing and the sun.
The desert has so many shades, it’s like the sea. Just as unforgiving, just as loving. That may explain in part why it speaks to me so strongly. Similar moods, the sense of space, the boundlessness and the culture of the people who are bound to it. There is also a strength that is tied to it – for endurance and life. I think I could fall in love with this place.
I certainly am having fun, though. So far, my mother’s been offered up to 500 camels for me, including 2 “loaded with diamonds.” I haven’t heard her decision, except that she “doesn’t know what to do with all the camels” I’ll keep the diamonds. LOL
As for the pilgrims… I’m stocking up on sin credits. The prayers to “Howard” and “Hailey” are causing me much amusement, and it’s getting harder to not laugh. I have always had difficulty with people who make a big show of being religious, and there’s a few of them on this trip. One in particular has an affected voice, and starts the rosary with “Ahr Fadder, who arth in hivin, Howard be they name…” and continues with a decade of “Hailey Mary…” there’s more, but after the first decade, I’m staring out the window and trying not to laugh.
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